Windorah to Birdsville

Today was never going to be a hard one. Only 390 kilometres to travel, with a few good stops planned along the way.

Arriving at the local service station to fuel up and get a smashing bacon and egg toasted sandwich, we were met by a lovely lady. She dutifully took our money for fuel and our order for two b&e delights.

As we sat and shared our one bacon and egg sandwich; we contemplated the day ahead. More so, we contemplated Bernie and Annette having to drive from Caloundra to Quilpie in one hit. Shortly after, Annette rang to say they were already in Roma, at just on 9am. We commented that the new power mapping in the Toyota was obviously paying dividends.

Without a lot to comment on, we took the opportunity to stop at the sign that shows exactly where the hole in the hill is. We stopped to get a photo of Puma in the middle of nowhere. We figured if this one did not work out, there would be more such opportunities. We slowed for the ruins of the somethingorother hotel and kept relentlessly heading west.

Shortly prior to the toilet, prior the left turn towards Birdsville, we had a truckie call on the CB and refer to Puma as a Landcruiser! Poor old Puma momentarily lost power, shuddered slightly and coughed a COVID cough, at being so insulted. To his credit the author of such blasphemy immediately corrected himself and all was again good in the world.

We hit gravel not long after, admiring what a season of few travellers does for the road surface. Blasting along at 90 or better, we also got to appreciate the incredible suspension MR Automotive had fitted to Puma. Hitting a hidden canyon in the middle of a gully, the beast just soaked it up and whispered, “that all you got”.

Soon after we saw the unmistakable outline of a Defender cresting the horizon. She was white, pristine and looked so at home as dust bellowed from her wheels as she hurtled toward us. As we passed the CB lit up with “Hey Peter, how are you, Trevor is waiting for you in Birdsville.” We laughed hard, for the Defender owners are indeed a family.

Deon’s Lookout provided some respite, with its incredible views over a never-ending landscape. The lookout is a must for travellers. It is located atop a massive mesa, giving some degree of scale to the vastness of this barren landscape.

Betoota was the next point of interest. Now with its pub again operating, it is almost worth the 7-kilometre detour. Having seen television commentary on the re-birth of this outback icon, we had great hopes. From an infrastructure viewpoint, it excels. The new owner has added quality showers and amenities. Created fantastic outdoor communal areas and added vintage cars for effect. Unfortunately, the pub is not so loved. Day time food extends to just pies and sausage rolls, with the thought of a lovely Windorah style bacon and egg toasted being just that; a thought.

The couple of hundred kilometres to Birdsville passed without event. Puma kept purring. Finally, with some trepidation, we entered deep into snake country. Peter ate the red ones, with G favouring the yellow and green. Allens are the traveller’s friend, no doubt. We rolled into Birdsville to the news from Roma that Peter’s favourite coat had been located. Long story, but worth dancing a small jig anyway.